Julia, this tale touched my soul! Somewhat familiar, yet so beyond my own experiences. I'm very grateful that you have been there and done that, and offer your insight here. Thank you!
What a wonderful experience. I’m glad you connected with your guide. I’ve had similar connections with guides in Tanzania; my last safari, pre-Covid, was during the Migration and the spectacle is ineffable. My guide was delighted to see one person in our small group (me) struck silent in awe. These are the defining moments on safari.
I think we really underestimate how deeply they are invested in our experience, Judith. I've seen the opposite happen, where a traveler, in this case a mountain climber, completely disrespected his very experienced guide who already had some 400 summits of Kilimanjaro. The climber, an arrogant but experienced man in his 70s, demanded that his guide take him up the hardest possible route. The man bonked, and since you can't go back down that particular route, the guide had to shoulder the man and his pack and the man's pack to the top. I never forgot that story- it really influenced how I interacted with guides after that. They want us to succeed, and to your point, they love it when we are mesmerized by their world. And respect it.
Like the day a young bull in musth charged me in the front seat. My guide said be very still, very quiet, it is a mock charge. In the back, the others were chatting about what they drank the night before, their hangovers, and what they would drink that night. The elephant stopped so close, I could have touched his trunk. Instead, he sniffed me, my face, my hat, then walked away. The guide was grinning ear to ear. I was awestruck. No photos, the others were too busy thinking about drinking.
Can I steal this? This is gorgeous. And it makes a powerful point. Let me know. Tell me where you were so I can provide context, if you're okay with my using this.
I was staying at a lodge called Little Chem Chem, which is located within the Burunge Wildlife Management Area (WMA) in northern Tanzania. Chem Chem Association has 2 tented camps and one lodge, and their location helps to protect the Kwakuchinja corridor — an important ancient migratory route connecting the Tarangire and Lake Manyara national parks. Their mission is based on the concept that without interaction with the local communities, conservation and wildlife protection is impossible. While I was there, we saw 3 different breeding herds of elephants - ranging from babies through to big tuskers.
In the 3 nights and 4 days I was in this concession, I participated in a sundown walking safari where we came across an older bull with a young one, and the guide said the older bull was mentoring the younger one, to teach him how to be a bull. They saw us, but we were down wind at a safe distance so they lost interest.
I also met with the principal of a local school, and one of the teachers. The principal talked about the lack of funding for books, how the government didn't think their particular school was important enough to fully staff. He split his time between teaching math and science and being the principal. The teacher said she only worked mornings - again, underfunding. Her daughter, completely mute, was there. She was about 6, and while she was theoretically a student, she didn't stay in class. The class was made up of close to 40 students, ranging in age from 6 to 15. They learned English and history in that class; in the afternoon it would be math and science class with the principal.
The daughter decided she liked me, and took me by the hand to lead me around the grounds of the school. Eventually, she brought me back to the principal's office. These children, all Maasai, were eager to learn. Many intended to go on to wildlife and conservation schools with the intent to work as guides in tourism. They want to teach us. They want to protect and respect their culture, their wildlife, their land.
They would prefer we pay attention instead of worrying about what was being served at sundowners.
My Kenya safari last August was a dream trip — I'd have loved to do it on horseback, but the rest of our party certainly wouldn't and I'm not at all sure my rusty riding skills are up to the challenge. So it's a great treat to hear about yours!
Julia, this tale touched my soul! Somewhat familiar, yet so beyond my own experiences. I'm very grateful that you have been there and done that, and offer your insight here. Thank you!
Thanks back, Erik. Have you thought about creating a course for outdoor photographers?
Maybe one day. Right now I still have a vast amount to learn and am still very early in the process of validating myself and my work.
What a wonderful experience. I’m glad you connected with your guide. I’ve had similar connections with guides in Tanzania; my last safari, pre-Covid, was during the Migration and the spectacle is ineffable. My guide was delighted to see one person in our small group (me) struck silent in awe. These are the defining moments on safari.
I think we really underestimate how deeply they are invested in our experience, Judith. I've seen the opposite happen, where a traveler, in this case a mountain climber, completely disrespected his very experienced guide who already had some 400 summits of Kilimanjaro. The climber, an arrogant but experienced man in his 70s, demanded that his guide take him up the hardest possible route. The man bonked, and since you can't go back down that particular route, the guide had to shoulder the man and his pack and the man's pack to the top. I never forgot that story- it really influenced how I interacted with guides after that. They want us to succeed, and to your point, they love it when we are mesmerized by their world. And respect it.
Like the day a young bull in musth charged me in the front seat. My guide said be very still, very quiet, it is a mock charge. In the back, the others were chatting about what they drank the night before, their hangovers, and what they would drink that night. The elephant stopped so close, I could have touched his trunk. Instead, he sniffed me, my face, my hat, then walked away. The guide was grinning ear to ear. I was awestruck. No photos, the others were too busy thinking about drinking.
Can I steal this? This is gorgeous. And it makes a powerful point. Let me know. Tell me where you were so I can provide context, if you're okay with my using this.
Yes, of course you can.
I was staying at a lodge called Little Chem Chem, which is located within the Burunge Wildlife Management Area (WMA) in northern Tanzania. Chem Chem Association has 2 tented camps and one lodge, and their location helps to protect the Kwakuchinja corridor — an important ancient migratory route connecting the Tarangire and Lake Manyara national parks. Their mission is based on the concept that without interaction with the local communities, conservation and wildlife protection is impossible. While I was there, we saw 3 different breeding herds of elephants - ranging from babies through to big tuskers.
In the 3 nights and 4 days I was in this concession, I participated in a sundown walking safari where we came across an older bull with a young one, and the guide said the older bull was mentoring the younger one, to teach him how to be a bull. They saw us, but we were down wind at a safe distance so they lost interest.
I also met with the principal of a local school, and one of the teachers. The principal talked about the lack of funding for books, how the government didn't think their particular school was important enough to fully staff. He split his time between teaching math and science and being the principal. The teacher said she only worked mornings - again, underfunding. Her daughter, completely mute, was there. She was about 6, and while she was theoretically a student, she didn't stay in class. The class was made up of close to 40 students, ranging in age from 6 to 15. They learned English and history in that class; in the afternoon it would be math and science class with the principal.
The daughter decided she liked me, and took me by the hand to lead me around the grounds of the school. Eventually, she brought me back to the principal's office. These children, all Maasai, were eager to learn. Many intended to go on to wildlife and conservation schools with the intent to work as guides in tourism. They want to teach us. They want to protect and respect their culture, their wildlife, their land.
They would prefer we pay attention instead of worrying about what was being served at sundowners.
Maaan, this was BEAUTIFUL to read. I could have kept going!
More is coming, KK. I have twelve years of similar, also funny, embarrassing as hell and plenty of ouches. Thanks!
Isn't it funny when you recall how many moments there are, you feel like you can write fast enough! 😁
I wish i could type twice as fast, and I very much wish I had twice the time.
My Kenya safari last August was a dream trip — I'd have loved to do it on horseback, but the rest of our party certainly wouldn't and I'm not at all sure my rusty riding skills are up to the challenge. So it's a great treat to hear about yours!
Lots of them accommodate all levels, Jan. I'd keep my eyes peeled and would be happy to help!